Top Indian Craft Techniques Used in Fashion Today
Indigo blue, the deep red of madder root, and the earthy texture of hand-carved wooden blocks come together in some of India’s oldest textile traditions. These crafts have travelled through centuries, shaping not just cloth but the way it feels and lives with the wearer. Today, many of these techniques continue to influence fashion, offering a quiet counterpoint to fast, mass-produced fabrics.
From the intricate double-sided Ajrakh prints of Kutch to the soft shimmer of Lucknow’s phool patti and mukaish, each technique carries a story of place, community, and time. These crafts are not just about pattern or colour but about the patient layering of natural materials and human skill.
In this piece
- The story of Ajrakh
- How it is made
- What sets it apart
- The wider context
- Wearing Ajrakh today
- Living with this cloth
- Care and longevity
- Common questions
The story of Ajrakh
Ajrakh is one of the oldest surviving block-print traditions in the world, with fragments of cloth bearing its characteristic indigo and madder red found at Indus Valley sites such as Mohenjo-daro, dating back over 4,000 years. The craft as it is practiced today carries forward this deep lineage, rooted in the Khatri community originally from Sindh (now in Pakistan).
After Partition in 1947, several Khatri families relocated to Kutch, Gujarat, settling primarily in the village of Dhamadka. The devastating 2001 Bhuj earthquake destroyed the local groundwater and infrastructure, prompting the community to found a new village named Ajrakhpur, about 15 km from Bhuj, which remains the heart of Ajrakh production today.
The name 'Ajrakh' is most commonly traced to the Arabic word 'azrak', meaning blue, reflecting the centrality of indigo in the craft’s palette. An oral tradition among printers also interprets it as 'aaj ke din rakh', meaning 'keep it for today', a reference to the patient process of leaving the cloth overnight at almost every stage of the long printing and dyeing sequence. Historically, Ajrakh cloth was worn by Maldhari pastoralists of Kutch and Sindhi men as lungis, shoulder cloths, and turbans, though today it appears on sarees, blouses, kurtas, dupattas, and stoles.
How it is made
The Ajrakh process is a patient, multi-stage ritual that can take between 14 and 21 days to complete. It involves around 16 stages of alternating washing, mordanting, resist printing, drying, and natural dyeing. Each step depends on the previous one, requiring the artisan to wait for the cloth to dry or rest overnight before proceeding.
Natural dyes are central to Ajrakh: indigo for blue, alizarin from madder root for red, iron-fermented water for black, and pomegranate rind or harda for yellow. The resist printing is done with a mud paste called kheech, made from clay, lime, gum, and millet flour, applied with hand-carved wooden blocks. This mud protects certain areas of the cloth from dye in the next bath.
One of the most remarkable aspects of Ajrakh is that the cloth is printed on both sides in identical register, a rare feature among block-print traditions worldwide. The motifs draw from Persian and Islamic geometric traditions, including jaali (lattice), badam (almond), mihrab (arch), kakkar (cloud), and champakali (jasmine bud).
What sets it apart
Ajrakh’s defining feature is its double-sided block printing, where every motif appears in perfect register on both sides of the cloth. This requires extraordinary precision and skill. The layering of natural dyes and the use of mud resist also create a depth and texture that develops over time with wear.
The slow, multi-day process demands patience and respect for natural rhythms, with the cloth resting overnight at many stages. The natural dyes age gracefully, softening rather than fading harshly, aligning Ajrakh with Ayurvastra principles that value plant and mineral-based inputs for a textile that interacts gently with the body.
The wider context
Ajrakh is a living example of slow fashion, where time, place, and human touch are integral to the cloth’s character. Its natural dyes and hand-carved blocks reflect a conscious approach that values sustainability and tradition over speed and uniformity.
At Tilohri, we work closely with the Ajrakhpur artisan cluster, treating them as family and honouring their craft’s deep lineage. This connection ensures that each piece carries not just pattern and colour but the stories and rhythms of its makers.
Wearing Ajrakh today
Ajrakh cloth is versatile in a modern wardrobe. It appears on sarees, kurtas, dupattas, stoles, and even jackets, offering a quiet statement of heritage and craft. The deep indigo and warm reds pair naturally with other handloom and natural fibre garments, making Ajrakh a thoughtful choice for those who appreciate texture and story in their clothing.
Explore the Tilohri collection to see how Ajrakh and other Indian craft techniques continue to inspire contemporary fashion.
Living with this cloth
Ajrakh cotton breathes softly against the skin, its natural dyes and hand-blocked patterns creating a tactile experience that deepens with wear. The cloth ages into a softer drape, carrying the marks of time without losing its integrity.
It wears well in warm weather due to its breathable cotton base and feels comfortable layered in cooler seasons. The slightly irregular edges of block print and the subtle variations in dye depth are signs of its handmade nature, inviting a closer look and a slower appreciation.
Care and longevity
- Hand wash separately in cold water to preserve natural dyes.
- Use mild, natural detergents without bleach or harsh chemicals.
- Dry Ajrakh cloth in shade to prevent sun fading.
- Iron on the reverse side with moderate heat to protect print.
- Store folded in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
Common questions
What are the benefits of wearing naturally crafted Ajrakh garments?
Ajrakh garments use natural dyes and hand-block printing, making them gentle on the skin and environmentally conscious. The cloth breathes well and ages gracefully, offering comfort and character over time.
How is Ajrakh actually made?
The process involves 14 to 21 days of alternating washing, mordanting, resist printing with mud paste, and natural dyeing using indigo, madder, and other plant-based materials. The cloth is printed on both sides with hand-carved wooden blocks.
How much effort and time goes into making a single piece?
A single Ajrakh piece requires around 16 stages over two to three weeks, with artisans carefully layering dyes and prints. The precision needed for double-sided printing adds to the time and skill involved.
What role do natural inputs play in this craft?
Natural dyes, water, mud resist paste, and hand-carved blocks are essential to Ajrakh. They ensure the cloth is Ayurvastra-aligned, breathable, and develops a soft patina rather than fading harshly.
How should Ajrakh garments be cared for to maintain their colour and texture?
Gentle hand washing in cold water with natural detergents and drying in shade help preserve the colours and print. Avoid harsh chemicals and strong sunlight.
Why do Ajrakh prints sometimes show slight irregularities?
These irregularities are a hallmark of hand block printing and mud resist application, reflecting the human touch and natural materials rather than machine precision.
Is Ajrakh suitable for summer wear?
Yes, Ajrakh cotton is breathable and comfortable in warm weather, making it a preferred choice for summer garments.
How can one distinguish authentic Ajrakh from machine-printed fabric?
Authentic Ajrakh has double-sided prints in perfect register, slight variations in colour depth, and soft edges in the motifs. Machine prints lack these subtle textures and the depth of natural dyes.
A quieter way to dress
Choosing Ajrakh and other traditional Indian crafts invites a slower, more thoughtful way of dressing. Each cloth carries the story of its makers and the rhythms of its making. Explore these textiles in the Tilohri collection and find pieces that speak softly but deeply.