How Tilohri Blends Indian Crafts with Modern Fashion
Indigo and maroon hues meet in a quiet dialogue on Ajrakh cotton. The cloth carries stories of the Khatri community, whose hands have printed geometric motifs with wooden blocks for generations. This is not just fabric but a slow, layered process where each stage waits patiently for the next, creating a depth that feels both ancient and contemporary.
Tilohri brings this tradition from the village of Ajrakhpur, where the craft was rebuilt after the 2001 earthquake, into the rhythms of modern wardrobes. The blend is subtle: Ajrakh's natural dyes and double-sided prints find new life in sarees, kurtas, and stoles designed for today’s wearers who value texture and time.
In this piece
- The story of Ajrakh
- How it is made
- What sets it apart
- The wider context
- Wearing Ajrakh today
- Living with this cloth
- Care and longevity
- Common questions
The story of Ajrakh
Ajrakh is one of the oldest surviving block-print traditions in the world, with fragments resembling its motifs found at Indus Valley sites like Mohenjo-daro and even at Fustat in Egypt, dating back over 4,000 years. The craft is deeply rooted in the Khatri community, originally from Sindh, who after Partition in 1947, resettled in Kutch, Gujarat. They rebuilt the craft around a local water source in the village of Dhamadka.
Following the devastating 2001 Bhuj earthquake, which destroyed Dhamadka's groundwater and infrastructure, the community founded Ajrakhpur, a village named after the craft itself, about 15 kilometers from Bhuj. This cluster remains the heart of Ajrakh production today and the source of Tilohri’s Ajrakh textiles.
The word 'Ajrakh' is commonly traced to the Arabic 'azrak', meaning blue, reflecting the importance of indigo in the palette. An oral tradition among printers also interprets it as 'aaj ke din rakh', meaning 'keep it for today', a nod to the patience required as the cloth rests overnight at nearly every stage of its long process. Historically, Ajrakh was worn by Maldhari pastoralists as lungis, turbans, and shoulder cloths, and today it is increasingly seen on sarees, blouses, and dupattas.
How it is made
The making of Ajrakh is a slow and deliberate process spanning 14 to 21 days and involving around 16 stages. It begins with washing and mordanting the cotton cloth, preparing it to receive natural dyes. The cloth is then resist-printed using wooden blocks carved with geometric motifs, applying a mud resist paste made from clay, lime, gum, and millet flour to protect areas from dye.
Natural dyes such as indigo for blue, madder root for red, iron-fermented water for black, and pomegranate rind or harda for yellow are applied in successive baths. Each dyeing stage is followed by washing and drying, with the cloth often resting overnight to allow the colours to set. A defining feature of Ajrakh is that the printing is done on both sides of the cloth in identical register, a rare and demanding technique that adds to the fabric’s depth and durability.
What sets it apart
Ajrakh’s hallmark is its double-sided printing, where every motif appears precisely on both faces of the cloth. This requires exceptional skill and patience from the artisans. The use of natural dyes and a complex resist-printing method involving multiple stages creates a rich, layered surface that feels alive and textured rather than flat.
The motifs themselves descend from Persian and Islamic geometric traditions, including jaali lattices, badam almonds, mihrab arches, kakkar clouds, and champakali jasmine buds. The palette is deeply tied to nature and place, with indigo blue at its core, balanced by earthy reds, blacks, and yellows.
The wider context
Ajrakh fits naturally within the slow fashion movement and conscious living. The craft’s reliance on natural dyes and hand processes aligns with Ayurvastra principles, where plant and mineral-based inputs create textiles that interact gently with the body. Unlike mass-produced fabrics, Ajrakh ages gracefully, developing a soft patina with wear.
Tilohri’s collaboration with the Ajrakhpur cluster is not just about preserving a craft but living alongside it as family, respecting the rhythms of handwork and the environment. This approach encourages mindful consumption and a deeper connection to the textiles we wear.
Wearing Ajrakh today
Ajrakh cloth has moved beyond its traditional menswear roots to find a place in contemporary wardrobes. At Tilohri, it appears on sarees, blouses, kurtas, dupattas, and stoles designed for everyday wear and special occasions alike. The natural colours and geometric patterns lend themselves to both casual and formal styling.
Its tactile quality invites layering and pairing with other natural fabrics. For those interested in exploring Ajrakh further, Tilohri’s collection offers a range of thoughtfully crafted pieces that blend heritage with modern sensibility.
Living with this cloth
Ajrakh cotton breathes softly against the skin, its natural fibres and dyes creating a comfortable experience throughout the day. The cloth’s texture deepens with time, the colours mellowing into a lived-in patina that tells the story of its journey.
Because of its durability and the double-sided print, Ajrakh wears well in varied climates and settings. It is equally at home in the quiet moments of daily life or in the presence of guests, carrying a sense of place and tradition without demanding attention.
Care and longevity
- Hand wash Ajrakh garments gently in cold water to preserve natural dyes.
- Avoid harsh detergents and direct sunlight during drying to maintain colour vibrancy.
- Iron on the reverse side at medium heat to protect the print.
- Store folded in a cool, dry place away from moisture to prevent mildew.
- Periodic airing helps maintain freshness without frequent washing.
Common questions
What are the benefits of wearing naturally crafted Ajrakh garments?
Natural Ajrakh garments are breathable, gentle on the skin, and free from synthetic chemicals. The natural dyes and hand printing create a unique texture and depth that evolves with wear, offering a quiet connection to tradition and place.
How is Ajrakh actually made?
Ajrakh is made through a multi-stage process involving washing, mordanting, resist-printing with mud paste, and natural dye baths. The cloth is printed on both sides with wooden blocks and undergoes repeated drying and washing over two to three weeks.
How much effort and time goes into making a single piece?
A single Ajrakh piece can take between 14 and 21 days to complete, with artisans carefully layering dyes and resists. Each stage requires patience and precision, especially to achieve the signature double-sided print.
What role do natural inputs play in this craft?
Natural inputs like indigo, madder root, pomegranate rind, and mud resist are essential for Ajrakh’s colours and patterns. The water, clay, and plant-based dyes all contribute to the cloth’s Ayurvastra qualities and its gentle interaction with the body.
How should I care for Ajrakh garments to maintain their colour?
Use cold water and mild detergents for washing, avoid bleach and strong sunlight, and dry in shade. These steps help preserve the natural dyes and prevent fading.
Does Ajrakh fabric feel different in summer or winter?
Ajrakh cotton is breathable and comfortable in warm weather, while its layered dyeing and natural fibres provide a gentle warmth in cooler months, making it versatile year-round.
Why do Ajrakh prints sometimes show slight irregularities?
Irregularities are a hallmark of hand block printing, reflecting the artisan’s hand and the natural materials used. They add character and authenticity rather than indicating flaws.
How can I tell authentic Ajrakh from machine-made prints?
Authentic Ajrakh is printed on both sides with precise register, shows slight colour variations, and has soft edges where dyes bleed naturally. Machine prints lack this depth and often have uniform, flat patterns.
A quieter way to dress
Choosing Ajrakh means embracing a textile that carries centuries of history and a process rooted in care and patience. To explore this tradition woven into modern forms, visit Tilohri’s collection and find pieces that invite you to live slowly with cloth.